![]() ![]() ![]() Once broken, one of the things we used to do was to drill out around the ez out with COLBALT drill bits. I used the taper ones so you could back them out if the bolt won't move. Best thing is to drill the center hole out as large as you can, to get the biggest ez out in there, as it will be stronger. The key to not breaking them is to know when applying too much force and the broken stud/bolt won't budge, you will break the ez out. Probably due to heat and the turbo vibration. When I worked at the dealership, exhaust studs would break on the cars all the time, usually the last one on the rear cylinder. Trying to break it in situ won't work as there isn't anyway for it to expand so it will have somewhere to break out to. Hammering it with a punch only makes it sit in there tighter and will never allow it out. Not much will put a dent into a good easy out, they are hardened. I can't cut a groove in it without also "grooving" the leather around the hole. Tomorrow I'm going to try getting the head drilled off it and see if I can't see better or maybe even grind the nub that's left into an approximation of a hex and get a socket on it. I'm trying to get this out so I can put the wife's backrest on my seat and take a trip one up where I figure I might like that backrest but that's not until mid August. Toolfan, I might just be hollering at you in a couple of weeks. If I could find something to drill into the bit, I'd just stick my new #2 EZ-OUT in there and pull the bastard out. As mentioned, it's hard to see where the hell it even is.Ģ dumbnotto - I don't see how a lefty bit that won't cut and goes dull is going to solve this. ![]() I'm almost wondering if the EZ out wasn't heat treated wrong- resulting in really goddamn hard and extra brittle metal. flattened out the point on my damn center punch. Greasemonkey- I tried center punching it to help the drill bits cut. The small diameter and the funky angle also make it prime for busting off drillbits. It's like an inch into the back of the seat. I'm fast approaching the cost of another damn backrest even at Corbin prices.īTW, the bolt is recessed in riveted on leather, some hard plasticky stuff, metal, AND foam. I also killed a couple Dremel bits on it already. I think I've screwed it up beyond your technique. The tip doesn't seem to go dull like the cheap Harbor Freight ones.Hay ewe- It's hard to see where hte hell the bolt ends and the EZ out begins now. I'll try your center punch method now - I picked up last week a couple of Proto center punches - really high quality stuff. I don't think I want to hook up my MIG and try it. I could buy another smaller carbide burr for my die grinder, but it could be a waste of money as I could put it towards paying the machinist. I have the carbide Burr double cut rounded top one but it seems risky - M8 is a pretty small hole, i'll try it but I don't think I'll make progress. I'll try some of your methods but when I was trying to drill it 30 mintues ago, the drill slipped and started drilling into the side of the threads in the M8 hole. I managed to get out 5 of the other studs with the broken EZ out piece that seemed to work better when the pointed part sheared off. The EZ Out is the original type by CLEVELAND, bought at Grainger so I think it's the good material.
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